This wowed us with the heady mix of potter’s clay minerality, butterscotch, clarified butter, quince, baking spice, and just there saline in the nose. The palate has a presence to it with up front savory minerality that gives way to notes of quince, yellow plums and a hit of cedar. This is versatile stuff here, one thing to try this with would be a quick Chicken Picatta or slow Sous-Vide Carnitas. D&M Tasting Notes
The NV Brut Grand Réserve is an intriguing wine. Bold, rich and expansive, the Grand Réserve possesses terrific balance and tons of personality. Orchard fruit, spice, wild flowers and mint are all nicely lifted. A hint of sweetness from the oak adds complexity, but also a touch of high-toned volatile acidity as well that is at the limit of throwing the wine off balance. Sweet floral and spice notes reappear to extend the finish nicely. 90 Points Antonio Galloni, Vinous December 2019
The Grande Reserve NV is made up of 70% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir, and 10% Chardonnay, in almost equal parts 2013, and the solera. It was fermented, went through malolactic conversion, and was aged for over a year in large oak barrels. In bottle on its lees for 24 months, this was finished with a dosage of 7 grams.
From the coldest section of the Valley of the Marne. The Dehours domaine is one that has loss, but has redemption and growth at the end. The current proprietor Jerome’s grandfather Ludovic Dehours founded the estate in 1930 and passed in on to his son. Sadly Jerome’s father died while he was young, so the land and domaine were purchased by a financial group. In 1996 Jerome (who had been working at the domaine for the outside owners) along with his brother in law secured the financing to buy back the domaine and return it to family control. The current land holdings consist of 42 parcels spread over 35 acres in Cerseuil, Mareuil-le-Port, Oeuilly, and Troissy, on the south side of the Marne. Directly after taking back over the domaine, Jerome converted to organic vineyard work.
Struggle is baked in for the Dehours. As Jerome has said in print “We work in a very cold terroir,
maybe the coldest terroir in Champagne.” The challenges have come with a distinct advantage as Jerome and his team have had to think about the whole of the winemaking process at a marginal site. They are rare in that they use the tailles (the press lots) in the wines in addition to the light pressings and free run juice. Being a friend and peer to Anselme Selosse, he is said that this adds a more wine-like quality to his Champagnes. “I’ve learned there the freshness of a wine isn’t always linked to acidity, it’s often a salinity… and this is a function of terroir.” In the winery Jerome is one of a increasing number of growers that uses a high percentage of a solera begun in 1998 in his final cuvee. Michael Kennel, D&M Wine Buyer
Dehours Grand Reserve Brut Champagne
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- SKU #: 6905